Compressors have the highest rate of failure
of any REEFER component. Yet compressors very
seldom fail on their own and it is imperative that the cause of failure
be properly diagnosed and corrected when replacing the compressor. If this is
not done, the replacement compressor will also fail in a very short time.
A compressor is
an engine. A lubrication or a “coolant” issues caused engine failure in maximum
number of cases.
COOLANT FAILURE
This means lack
of heat removal from the condenser resulting in a high head pressure. On very
hot days this means a high side reading well over 300PSI( more than 20.7 bar).
A.
Too much refrigerant. (Overcharge)
B.
A dirty bug screen or debris blocking the
condenser.
C.
A clogged radiator/cooling system.
D.
A defective fan clutch or switch that
activates the fan clutch.(for mobile trucks where AC system is driven and clutch controlled to engage/disengage)
E.
A pinched tube in the condenser – reducing the
condenser output- caused by handling damage (if retrofitted or replaced).
F.
Improperly operating shutters.(if there is a
shutter opening during operation)
G.
Contaminated refrigerant.(improper method of
charging with moisture ingress inside or wrong gas added)
- Excessive air content (non-condensables gas) in system.(due to improper method of charging/ replacement of gas) .Air enters the system through loose fittings, deteriorated o-rings, and shrader ports. Even though the air conditioner has refrigerant in it, which means the pressure in the inside of the system is greater than the outside, air permeates (or goes through) the rubber hoses of the a/c system .
LUBRICATION FAILURE
Compressor needs
to be lubricated by a special refrigerant compatible oil. The oil is carried
through the a/c system by the refrigerant. The oil will not circulate without
refrigerant. Therefore, compressor failure due to a lubrication problem is
caused by:
A.
Loss of refrigerant which means no carrier of
the oil and no lubrication for the compressor.
B.
A blockage in the system. This will keep oil
from returning to the compressor and will normally show up as too low a reading
on the low pressure gauge. "Too Low" a reading means 0-10 PSI(0-0.8
bar) or a vacuum. The blockage may be in the form of:
1.
A clogged filter drier/expansion valve/orifice
tube.
2.
Moisture in the system , which is manifested like-If
the driver says the air conditioner works okay for a short time then starts
blowing hot air and that if he turns it off for a while and then turns it on it
works again for a short time, the odds are that there is moisture in the
system.
3.
Moisture will lead to formation of
Hydrofluoric acid and other acids in interaction with lubricating oils and
refrigerant – thus reducing lubricity and failure of compressors.
Note :A defective
thermostat or clutch cycling switch will cause the same symptoms like moisture,
however a watery smell will also be present.
4.
mechanically closed expansion valve. Some
types may be removed and blown through (with mouth) to check.
Although these
parts can be checked and cleaned, the service industry, as a general rule, will
replace them.
Airconditioning
system needs to be treated as a single unit – even though the failure can be
with a single component , the system has to be commissioned as a whole, when
installing the component in order to avoid failures in other components. The important
thing is that at some point, usually between one and three years of
installation, the drier is no longer able to absorb the moisture. This moisture
will mix and react with the refrigerant to form various acids. The acid will
“eat” away at the metal surfaces and rubber hose, flaking off bits of material
that will collect at the filter drier/accumulator screen, expansion valve,
orifice tube, and the compressor. This debris will slow or stop the flow of oil
from returning to the compressor and will cause compressor failure.
Evaporators,
especially aluminum units, commonly fail because of leaks that develop at the
bottom of the core. Acids that collect at the bottom of the evaporator and
“eat” through the very thin aluminum cause these leaks. Condensers, including
those made of copper, steel or aluminum also develop leaks from acid eating
through from the inside .
Acid will cause
small “pinhole” leaks to develop in the condenser coil and the evaporator coil.
Flaked off debris and sludge will flow to the bottom tubes of the condenser
causing both restrictions and a concentrated accumulation of acid to eat at the
coil. Sludge and debris at the bottom of the evaporator coil will not normally
cause a restriction but will eventually cause reduced cooling efficiency.
The
procedures to be adopted while commissioning a system can be given under the
following heads
1. Physical check of components with leak
test
2. Flushing the system
3. Installing new components
4. Refrigerant charging procedure .
1.Physical check of components
1.
Ensure that that the fan clutch, or electric
fan assembly, if there is one or more on the vehicle, is working properly. If
not it must be replaced or repaired. Check the switches and controls for the
fan and/or shutters.
2. Clean
the bug screen (if there is one). Check for debris in the radiator and the
condenser fins and/or loose fins.
3.
Check for good flow of coolant through the
radiator.(air flow)
4.
Check if there is a loss of refrigerant-
pressure test/ vacuum test- in case the system is intact – before any disassembly.
5.
If the
system contains refrigerant it must be recovered by an approved Recovery or
Recovery/Recycling System (vacuum unit with a recovery cylinder) .
6. Disconnect
the liquid line (the smallest diameter hose or line) at the expansion valve or
orifice tube and closely examine for contamination. If any contamination at all
is found, whether it is in the form of sludge, powder or grit, rust or metal
flake, aluminum oxide or metal shavings from the compressor, the entire system
must be flushed
2.Flushing the System
1.
Purge air conditioning system. Use a recovery system to collect any gas before
disassembly.
Components not to be flushed – and have to be removed prior flushing.
- Compressors
- Valves
- Orifice plates
- Accumulators and iquid driers
3. Remove and discard accumulator or
filter-drier.
4.
Disconnect discharge hose/ tube at compressor.
5.
Disconnect suction hose at compressor.
6.
Disconnect suction hose at evaporator. (If this is a filter-drier
system)
7. If system has an orifice tube, remove and
discard. (Orifice tube normally is located inside inlet end of evaporator)
8. Consult MSDS sheet and label of flush
solvent for precautionary measures. Pour 1 to 2 pints of flush solvent through
top of flush gun. Re-attach top nut with your quick disconnect.
9. To avoid spraying of oil, flush solvent, and
other debris, attach a piece of hose to end of component being flushed. Place
opposite end of venting hose in large can and fill with rags or other absorbent
material.
12. Attach your compressed air hose to quick
disconnect. Flushing will work efficiently from air/ nitrogen pressure of 7 bar.
13. First flush from end of discharge hose at
compressor, through hose, condenser and liquid line to point either where the
filter drier was discarded or where liquid line was disconnected at evaporator.
14. Flush remaining liquid line hose if system has
filter drier between condenser and evaporator.
15.
Flush suction hose between evaporator or accumulator and compressor.
16. If system has an expansion valve, remove and
clean. Reinstall or replace.
17. Flush evaporator.
18. If compressor is not being replaced, the oil
should be drained and replaced with clean refrigeration oil. If a replacement is being installed, check
for correct amount of oil already in compressor.
20. Wait approximately 20 minutes for flush
solvent to evaporate. Evaporation rate of solvent is dependent upon the type
and brand of flush solvent used and the ambient temperature. Slow evaporating
solvents may be “blown out” of system using dry, clean compressed air/ nitrogen.
-
3.Installation of
new components
1.The proper amount of oil must be
replaced in the system.
a. Drain
the oil from the replacement compressor (new or remanufactured).
b. Install
the following amount of oil in the compressor:
3.
CCl/York and Tecumseh 2 cyl. compressors - in
vertical position oil should stand approximately 1 inch.
4.
Frigidaire (GM.) A-6 - fill with oil so that
when compressor is held in operating position - oil will just start to drip out
of the loosened oil filler plug.
5.
GM DA6/R4/HR6HE; FORD FS6, FX 15 (FS 10);
DIESEL KIKJ (ZEXEL, SELTEC/TAMA) and SANDEN - install 5 ounces of oil.
2.Install the replacement
compressor.
3.For added protection, install an
in-line filter between the filter-drier and the expansion valve or orifice
tube.
4.Attach hoses, installing the filter drier
(or accumulator) last.
5..Add the following additional amounts of
oil:
Compressor Type
|
System Completely Flushed w/o Bunk Unit
|
Evaporator Not Flushed
|
System Completely Flushed with Bunk unit
|
CCI/YORK, TECUMSEH*
|
3 ounces
|
2 ounces
|
5 ounces
|
FRIGIDAIRE*
(GM)A-6 GM DA6/R4/HR6/HR6HE* FORDFS-6/FX15(FS10)* |
3 ounces
|
2 ounces
|
5 ounces
|
DIESEL KIKI (ZEXEL, TAMA)*
SANDEN |
3 ounces
|
2 ounces
|
5 ounces
|
Additional amount of oil can be
only poured into the discharge hose- not in suction line.
6.The system should now be
completely assembled, with the proper amount of oil and new drier, new or
cleaned expansion valve, and new o-rings if required.
7.
To prevent the shaft seal of the replacement compressor from leaking or blowing
out – ensure that after installing the
compressor on the vehicle(for mobile units), but before installing the belt, turn compressor
clutch by hand 10- 12 times. This brings oil up to the seal and lubricates it.
Note the GM DA6/HR6/HR6HE compressor cannot be turned by hand. Turn it with a
socket and ratchet by hand. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT.
7.
Your service gauge set should be hooked up.
Add about one quarter pound refrigerant. Watch your gauges. They should
equalize. The pressure from the refrigerant will help "seat" the
lubricated seal.
8.
Purge system using your refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Follow your machine's instructions to insure
complete recovery of refrigerant. Evacuate system for 30 sec. to a minute so
that low side gauge reads a vacuum. Close valves on gauge set and turn off
vacuum pump. If vacuum bleeds off, find and repair leak. If not, or after
repair, proceed to next step.
9.
Evacuate the system for a minimum of 45
minutes. Although the system is clean and free of acidic oil, 45 minutes is
necessary to insure a moisture free system. .
10.
Continue to charge the refrigerant once vacuum
test is satisfactory.
COMPRESSOR
REPLACEMENT REQUIRES THE INSTALLATION OF A NEW RECEIVER-DRIER/ACCUMULATOR AND
FLUSHING THE SYSTEM!
Charging
up an HVAC system running short of refrigerant.
Rule of thumb: Superheat at outlet of evaporator :
10 deg Farenheit
(difference between bubble and dew point temp for non azeotropic mixtures
- Connect all the hose 1, 2 and 3 with the HVAC kit.
- Purge air from the hose from 2 to 1 by tightening it at point C, valve A open, valve B closed and connection to the charging cylinder slightly open for air purging, later close after purging.
- Likewise, air purge the high-pressure side hose 3.
- Keeping the HVAC system running we will open the charging cylinder gas valve, valve B closed and open the valve A, allowing the refrigerant charge into the system
- Start charging the gas refrigerant to the low-pressure side of the HVAC system at connection C by opening the valve A and the refrigerant valve until the vacuum comes to zero.
- Now start the compressor as the suction pressure goes above zero.
- After about 30 – 40 seconds of charging close the valve A and check the suction gauge pressure for a rise in pressure.
- Keep monitoring the degree of superheat by the temperature calibrator to ensure liquid refrigerant is not entering into compressor suction also we can calculate how much charge present in the system by the pressure chart.
- If the superheat temperature is high, then it means the system is running low in refrigerant whereas lower superheat temperature than the desired value means the system has overcharged.
- Repeat the procedure 10 to 11 until the suction pressure reaches to 60 psi (as per maker) this avoids the risk of overcharging of the system also keep measuring the refrigerant by the weighing scale.
- Once the refrigerant has charged, disconnect all the hoses and secure everything.
Liquid refrigerant charging procedure for an air conditioner
- Evacuate the system by pumping down the refrigerant into a recovery bottle using a vacuum pump.
- Connect the liquid and gas line hose and purge it.
- Connect the charging hose to the red connection of the charging cylinder for a liquid charge, and if only one connection provided, then we need to invert the cylinder.
- Attach the temperature probe at the correct location near the sensing bulb to sense the degree of superheat and subcooling at the condenser outlet.
- Allow the liquid refrigerant to flow by opening the valve A and keeping the valve B closed.
- Since the system has a vacuum, the liquid refrigerant itself enters the system and move towards the evaporator and condenser until the pressure comes down to the charging cylinder pressure.
- Start the system, the liquid refrigerant gets equally divided between the evaporator and the condenser, and no danger of liquid flooding exists in the compressor.
- As the refrigerant leaves the charging cylinder, the charging cylinder pressure decreases, so to maintain the flow create a negative pressure by partially closing the receiver outlet throttle valve and allow the refrigerant to flow from the cylinder.
- In a refrigeration system, receiver outlet is provided with a “king valve” used for liquid charging also known as a throttle valve and can trap the entire system refrigerant inside receiver.
- This way liquid refrigerant gets admitted safely, but since the throttle valve reduces the pressure across the expansion valve, the system doesn’t run normally.
- In between close the refrigerant charging valve A and open the throttle valve fully and check the temperature and pressure readings.
- When fully charged the sight glass get’s clear also weigh the charging cylinder to know how much charge required as per maker for a full recharge.
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